The Neeley Family Distillery in Sparta, Kentucky, is a distillery that I’ve kept my eye on — not just because I’ve gotten to know Royce Neeley, the owner and master distiller. Royce, the first of 11 generations of Neeleys to distill legally, has taken the family’s moonshining legacy and brought it into the modern craft whiskey world. His focus on small-batch, innovative spirits that push the boundaries of bourbon-making is winning awards and garnering a lot of positive attention. Royce is making some great whiskey!
My pour for day five of the 30 Days of Bourbon is from a bottle of Royce’s bourbon, aged in an eight-year air-seasoned barrel. Bourbon gets 100% of its color and around 80% of its flavor from the barrel, making the wood crucial to the process. Cooperages—those who make whiskey barrels—let most bourbon staves season for about six months, allowing the wood to dry and weather naturally before constructing them into barrels. However, the wood for this barrel was air-seasoned for a full eight years in Kentucky’s unique climate. This extended seasoning allows the wood to break down more slowly, reducing harsh tannins and imparting richer, deeper flavors to the bourbon. I was part of the group that picked this barrel, and when it surfaced, we knew it was going to be extraordinary. We were not disappointed.
On the nose there are raisins and cherries with a hint of butter. The first sip hints at rich chocolate but I just can’t get more than that hint before it blossoms into brown sugar and something best described as raisin cornbread. It almost wants me to try making a loaf. There’s a bit of spiciness on the finish — like a toned down cinnamon with hint of oak and a surprising crispness. Oh and that hug….that wonderful 111 proof Kentucky hug that ends with another hint of rich chocoloate and a bit of cherry as it leaves you.
This bottle is a great example of what Royce Neeley is doing by pushing the boundaries of traditional bourbon-making. The air-seasoned barrel gave this bourbon a depth and complexity that you don’t find every day. The process shows Royce’s skill in identifying unique opportunities—like the extended air seasoning—and using them to create a whiskey that stands out. If you get the chance to try something from this distillery, especially one of his experiments, don’t pass it up. You’ll be in for a real treat.
Distillery: Neeley Family Distillery
Barrel: 8-Year Air-Seasoned Barrel
Mash Bill: 76% Corn, 19% Wheat, 5% Malted Barley
Age: 52 months
Proof: 111
Seasoning: Air-seasoned for 8 years
Availability: Single Barrel, limited release (ABV Barrel Shop)
